Autosport Labs

LOL that could well be the problem, has it fallen out or did you forget.....a good idea to help prevent the bolt coming loose is to use a verto flywheel bolt. Cut about quarter inch off, this will give more thread engagement over the standard bolt which is too short imho.

Coz it's wasted spark he's probably looking at the wrong spark, personally I'd say take it somewhere else.

Load value on a normally aspirated engine should be 100. 100 represents atmospheric pressure at sea level.
I believe 250 is for forced induction engines (turbo/supercharged).

MED HT cams about 280 degrees duration iirc, valve clearances would need to be 15thou with this cam.
Cam timing did you just line the dots up ? If so you need to measure what angle it's giving max lift at and get a offset key. Available at minispares.

Why did I have to go + 2 if I go -2 it bogs down? Because your whole map was out, by what ever amount error you've actually got at the sensor. So the original map you tried was more refined than the 286 map, so that those few degrees of error moved the timing to a less optimum position until the en...

The new map probably has more advance lower down than the previous one.
Your problem now is it's actually running at around 12 degrees, each Point and Valley is 2 degrees. So the 3rd tooth down is 12 degrees.
Can't you adjust your VR sensor ? It's worth the effort to get this correct.

http://www.autosportlabs.org/viewtopic.php?t=1643

Personally I'd say it's worth the time and effort to get the edis running at 10 degrees. Without having to offset the timing in the software.

That'll be the problem, have you not got a BDL you can try ? Quite a common needle, if you don't have one someone in your local mini club may. So see if you could borrow it for testing purposes.

Yes the springs are I.D'd by a coloured patch, which will be long gone. The paint indicated the weight of the spring and the main mini springs were: Red = 4.5, Blue = 2.5oz. The HIF 44's usually have the Red spring fitted as standard.

Yep once the needles out, they are marked on the part thats actually clamped into the dashpot piston. Remove the dashpot cap/plunger and then the 4 screws holding the dashpot on. Lift the piston off the carb carefully so you don't bend the needle, now tip it up and pour the damping oil out and undo ...

We really need to know what needles in the carb, with that sort of spec i'd be trying the BDL maybe the BDD. Have a look what's in there and report back.

Turbo's won't show boost, unless there is a load on the engine.

Besides the fact that the chips aren't available, the above is not exactly true. I got Two yes 2 diy, kits for 141 quid including shipping and tax. Ok I watched the exchange rates before ordering but............. Incidentally the first kit I soldered together worked perfect, so needn't have ordered ...

I'd start here with curve 6 (123ign-kurve6.mjlj) of the 123 dizzy can be found here:
http://www.autosportlabs.org/viewtopic. ... highlight=

From my understanding it's because the engine isn't running so not seeing a PIP & SAW signal. Had the same concerns with my map version, a quick search soon put my mind at rest.