Autosport Labs

It looks heavy, mine is thin one, it looks like it is not used as dampener, just serves as a pulley.

I do most of my driving below 3500 rpm (slow city driving), but I did test my setup at higher rpm, no problems so far. Bracket is made out of 15x15 mm RHS (rectangular hollow steel) ~2mm thick. Perhaps I could fix it to the alternator bracket, or somewhere else, I'll think about it. Thank you for th...

I have finished installation of my MJLJ setup, and it all runs OK, but I have one question. On the photo below, you can see how I secured trigger wheel to the pulley. I drilled three (120 degrees apart) holes in ~2mm thick pulley, tapped three M3 threads into the trigger wheel, and used M3 bolts to ...

Mfg: BMW Engine Code: M10 Cylinders: 4 Displacement (cc): 1600 Rev Limit: 6400 TPS or MAP: MAP Boosted or Normally Aspirated: Normally Aspirated Modifications: LPG conversion Chassis: E30 Notes: Engine was originaly fitted to BMW E21, but for Greece and former Yugoslavia (I am in Serbia) it was fitt...

And final three (I hope this comes out right, it looks like the first attachment you add goes at the bottom of the page, so I am adding all upsidedown):

It seems you can add max three attachments per post, so here are three more:

I decided to post few photos of my MJLJ powered 1987 E30 BMW. It has 1.6 liter engine. Rest of the world got 1.8 liter engine in 316, but for Greece and former Yugoslavia (I am in Serbia) it's 1.6. I did LPG conversion, and tried to go LPG only, but winter temperatures proved to be to low for that. ...

I thought that you do not need to set advance low at rpm limit, as you have set at 10 @ 7000 rpm here: http://www.btinternet.com/~triumph/TR7finalmap1.jpg It is enough to set rev limit option, and ignition will retard to 0 deg 100 rpm before your limit. Also, you do not need extra bin at 600 rpm, I ...

Hi Jeff. I am curious, you have 30 deg. advance at 500 rpm. Is there a risk of a detonation? 30 is quite a lot of advance at 500 rpm. I have trouble with stalling at idle when the engine is cold, and I am thinking about trying your anti-stall method.

I know that I can do that. But I wanted something that would simulate bad running, cutting, stalling. I could use reed switch, and just use small magnet on a keychain to activate/deactivate this feature. And I already do have hidden switch that prevents engine running (I had cut power to some relay,...

How about a map filled with zeros and a hidden switch? What happens if you set advance to 0? Will the engine run? I have quite high advance (compared to what I saw at ignition map library here), it goes from 18@1000 rpm up to 42@5500 rpm (that's @ 100 kPa MAP). Or an configurable option to toggle re...

Just a thought... Cold MJLJ be programed to cut ignition intermittently, to simulate broken engine. So that it can be used for car theft prevention.

You could - but then all the ignition theory anoraks will come along and tell you that you shouldn't hard cut the ignition coil power at random times compared with the coil charging times as you will get random sparks at completely the wrong timing, which at high rpm can be a Very Bad Thing... I di...

If I set one of the output switches at rev limit, and use it to power off ignition coil (with a relay), wold that work? Or would the engine just die?

I actually do not need rev limit, but I am curious

I think that a/c cut out at full load does "sound cool" but I don't think it's useful. MJLJ will cut out a/c every time you hit full throttle. Depending on your engine size and driving style that might be often, and not too good for the a/c compressor.