Theres very little reference to fuses or what rating fuse to use.
- Obviously the coil pack actaully does somthing real (make sparks) so draws real power. Although im not sure how much.
- While the megajolt and edis are just boxes of electronics having fun. So dont really need very much at all. Like about none.
However as im using a internal hardcut rev limiter, all the power for the coil goes through the MJLT anyway.
So if i common all the +ve feeds together (edis, and mjlt, which also feeds the coil) and run it though to a swtich feed. What fuse rating is recomended.
The guide says to use 16gauge minimum feed to the MJLT if using the internal hard cut rev limited (otherwise 18 is ok).
Currently im using a 10amp fuse (only value ive seen mentioned) but ive just blow it once when turning off to stop engine and turning back on just before it had actaull stoped unintentinoally.
Would a 15amp fuse be ok? 25amp?
Currertly its actaully all plugged into lighter socket, but in the long term i will remove the distribotor and use the coil feed from that, which is currently unfused.
Daniel
Fuses
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NITROPIXIE
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The way i think of the main reason for a fuse is to prevent any electrical fires first and then to protect any circuitry/components.
If a wire cannot take more current then the fuse protecting it then there is a real chance for an electrical fire in a car, worst case scenario, no????
Obviously its best to fuse as near to the battery as possible in case of any shorts further down the wire and with a reasonable size fuse. How to work out the size of a fuse used can be simply a measurement with an amp meter whilst the circuitry is up and running then go for the next fuse up or doing the mathematical approach which could be quite a bit more difficult but would be required if a circuit could draw a varying amount of current.
Since the circuitry you have reduces current to the coil, which is the largest drawing current, then the first method with an ammeter can be used.
I would keep running it on the fuse you have for now since it works and if it keeps becoming a problem then go the next size up.
16 swg wire would be better than 18 as its thicker.
Hope this helps
If a wire cannot take more current then the fuse protecting it then there is a real chance for an electrical fire in a car, worst case scenario, no????
Obviously its best to fuse as near to the battery as possible in case of any shorts further down the wire and with a reasonable size fuse. How to work out the size of a fuse used can be simply a measurement with an amp meter whilst the circuitry is up and running then go for the next fuse up or doing the mathematical approach which could be quite a bit more difficult but would be required if a circuit could draw a varying amount of current.
Since the circuitry you have reduces current to the coil, which is the largest drawing current, then the first method with an ammeter can be used.
I would keep running it on the fuse you have for now since it works and if it keeps becoming a problem then go the next size up.
16 swg wire would be better than 18 as its thicker.
Hope this helps
1310 A-series Mini, lightened and built myself. V4 board and loving it
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Yeah, ive had a bit of a measure. According to mr fluke the setup draws about 2amps maximum (higher revs) so a 10amp fuse should more than cover it. Not really sure why it blow in that case? Brent?
As you say, the fuse is really mainly covering the wiring, as it would blow far to slow to save any electronics (fuse boxs uses standard automotive blade fuses). Basically all of the wiring is somewhere near 16awg (metric equiv) or in the case of the CPS and TSP and coilpack, the gauge that it used within the car it was removed from. Although the last 6inchs into the megajolt itself is 18awg for everything except the TPS which is 20awg becuase that what the powersupply i nicked the plug from used.
I'll stick with the 10amp fuse, which is more than capable of coving the wiring. And will keep a few spares in the glovebag. (like a glovebox, only smaller!)
Daniel
As you say, the fuse is really mainly covering the wiring, as it would blow far to slow to save any electronics (fuse boxs uses standard automotive blade fuses). Basically all of the wiring is somewhere near 16awg (metric equiv) or in the case of the CPS and TSP and coilpack, the gauge that it used within the car it was removed from. Although the last 6inchs into the megajolt itself is 18awg for everything except the TPS which is 20awg becuase that what the powersupply i nicked the plug from used.
I'll stick with the 10amp fuse, which is more than capable of coving the wiring. And will keep a few spares in the glovebag. (like a glovebox, only smaller!)
Daniel