Hi all
I've put together a megajolt installation into a mini and so far all is looking good. I bought the kit, soldered it myself, i've had a bit of experience in this area so that helped. Thought the kit was set out really well and so easy to use so big z's (well done) there. Maybe a very slight critiscism would be the SMT parts maybe a bit harder for the more novice of us to solder, not much of a critiscism really but that is all i could thnk of.
So my problem at the moment is that i have put all the EDIS components on the engine and managed to get the engine running without megajolt. When i used the timing strobe to check timing it was at 12 deg advance. Is this acceptable??
I think i read somewhere it should be 10 deg (Ford) and i think the mini is supposed to be 6 deg. If so does this mean i can just set the trigger off set to -2 on the megajolt so that i get 10 deg???
I had someone fabricate a trigger wheel for me and asked them to include some adjustment of 10 degs but its at the limit at the moment, i could take some more off to get it spot on or is it not essential.
Ryan
Its a case of timing - mini engine A series
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Hi Ryan,
Welcome! Glad you have things going well so far. For the EDIS installation, the static timing is always 10 degrees. So- it seems you have your sensor fairly close. You can adjust the trigger offset in software (See the operation guide), or you can maybe shift your sensor slightly since it's only 2 degrees.
Welcome! Glad you have things going well so far. For the EDIS installation, the static timing is always 10 degrees. So- it seems you have your sensor fairly close. You can adjust the trigger offset in software (See the operation guide), or you can maybe shift your sensor slightly since it's only 2 degrees.
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Nitropixie, I've got a strobe and have just finished connecting up the EDIS and coilpack to my A-series. Not having adjusted timing before, I'm a bit in the dark as to what I'm looking for.
Connecting the light to plug 1 (that is, closest to the radiator) and shining it at the timing marks, which one shows 10 degrees!? None of them have any markings at all, as far as I can see.
Connecting the light to plug 1 (that is, closest to the radiator) and shining it at the timing marks, which one shows 10 degrees!? None of them have any markings at all, as far as I can see.
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Hi Spetom
When doing the timing it doesn't matter if you connect to 1 or 4. I always used the flywheel end as number 1, i could be wrong but then like i said it doesn't matter 1 or 4.
One question, are your timing marks on your pully with four lil pointers on the timing cover (i think A+) or do you have a lil flap on your clutch cover plate and the flywheel has timing markings on it(Pre-A+). And i trust you have got your trigger wheel and VR sensor some where near the correct place for timing.
Anyhow disconnect your megajolt (turn it off) and leave the EDIS to run the engine on its own (limp home mode). Start your engine and connect your timing light. Pointing the gun at the timing markings. If you have a plus i think the markings a 4 degs apart but can't remember where they start from. If its Pre-A+ then the timings on the flywheel are usually 5 deg apart starting from 0 to 15 deg. If you look in a haynes manual it will tell you what the degrees each of the timing marks are for sure. I willl have a look later on if you need the information.
I got mine to within 2 degrees of the 10 degrees (12 degrees) recommended and it seems mine runs ok like this. Then when i connected the Megajolt i just put in a -2 offset in the programming. Megajolt can adjust to + or - 5 of timing electronically so as long as you get it in this ball park you should be ok.
Hope some of this helps
When doing the timing it doesn't matter if you connect to 1 or 4. I always used the flywheel end as number 1, i could be wrong but then like i said it doesn't matter 1 or 4.
One question, are your timing marks on your pully with four lil pointers on the timing cover (i think A+) or do you have a lil flap on your clutch cover plate and the flywheel has timing markings on it(Pre-A+). And i trust you have got your trigger wheel and VR sensor some where near the correct place for timing.
Anyhow disconnect your megajolt (turn it off) and leave the EDIS to run the engine on its own (limp home mode). Start your engine and connect your timing light. Pointing the gun at the timing markings. If you have a plus i think the markings a 4 degs apart but can't remember where they start from. If its Pre-A+ then the timings on the flywheel are usually 5 deg apart starting from 0 to 15 deg. If you look in a haynes manual it will tell you what the degrees each of the timing marks are for sure. I willl have a look later on if you need the information.
I got mine to within 2 degrees of the 10 degrees (12 degrees) recommended and it seems mine runs ok like this. Then when i connected the Megajolt i just put in a -2 offset in the programming. Megajolt can adjust to + or - 5 of timing electronically so as long as you get it in this ball park you should be ok.
Hope some of this helps
It's A+, so the timing marks are nice and easy to spot. Thanks for the help - seems it was running around 8 / 9 degrees without the MJ connected, so I've connected it and added +1, and that looks like it's done the trick.
One general question you might be able to answer: using the timing gun with cylinders 1 and 2, the flash is fast and quite regular - but connecting it to 3 and 4, it's noticeably slower and occasionally seems to miss a flash or two. Is there something wrong with the coilpack / EDIS, or is that normal? (I guess I should reconnect the old coil and see if that's doing the same thing)
One general question you might be able to answer: using the timing gun with cylinders 1 and 2, the flash is fast and quite regular - but connecting it to 3 and 4, it's noticeably slower and occasionally seems to miss a flash or two. Is there something wrong with the coilpack / EDIS, or is that normal? (I guess I should reconnect the old coil and see if that's doing the same thing)
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That sounds like a nice job, well done.
As for the strobe flashing faster on cylinders 1 and 2, than 3 or 4. I wouldn't say thats normal as coils 1 and 4 always spark together (wasted spark) and coils 2 and 3 always spark together, so my conclusion is that it they shouldn't as a matter of its design.
Is the engine missing at all?? If not it could be that the sensor on the timing light isn't picking up all the pulses sent. If it is missing then i would say the coil pack is on its way out. As the EDIS controls coils 1 and 4 together and not seperately (the same for 2 and 3).
What engine spec you got by the way?? just being nosey
As for the strobe flashing faster on cylinders 1 and 2, than 3 or 4. I wouldn't say thats normal as coils 1 and 4 always spark together (wasted spark) and coils 2 and 3 always spark together, so my conclusion is that it they shouldn't as a matter of its design.
Is the engine missing at all?? If not it could be that the sensor on the timing light isn't picking up all the pulses sent. If it is missing then i would say the coil pack is on its way out. As the EDIS controls coils 1 and 4 together and not seperately (the same for 2 and 3).
What engine spec you got by the way?? just being nosey
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- Posts: 704
- Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
- Location: Fareham, GB
Ryan,
Here's where the cranking advance and trigger offset parameters are documented:
http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_Op ... Parameters
For cranking advance, you may want to make small adjustments + or -, starting from the default 12 degrees.
Here's where the cranking advance and trigger offset parameters are documented:
http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_Op ... Parameters
For cranking advance, you may want to make small adjustments + or -, starting from the default 12 degrees.
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