I just got it running today in limp-mode but at least it runs. Its a 1974 Corolla TE21 sedan with the old 2TC "half-a-hemi" engine. I didn't care for the Ford style coil-pack so I used ones from a early 90's Toyota Paseo. I figure it'll look better once I put some different plug wire boots and a mount for the coil packs on. Sort of a "semi" coil on plug.
1974 Corolla TE21: mjlj saves!
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
1974 Corolla TE21: mjlj saves!
Last edited by sunray on Tue May 19, 2009 3:04 am, edited 3 times in total.
Thanks Brent! The part number for each coil pack is 90919-02213 and new they are about $90 each. With them you can get the connectors and gasketed wires which part numbers are: 90980-11246 for connector housing (you need two for a 4cyl) and 82998-12440 for the wires (you need 4 for a 4 cylinder). On my pictures the wires closest to the firewall on each coil pack are negative. This info should help you so you don't have to sift through diagrams and connector books like I did.
Thanks for the video- it may not be in tune, but it sounds nice! do you have a lightened flywheel?
Agree it's pretty amusing to see the vestigial distributor spinning around. How will you be blocking it off? I used a plate for my 4AG:
But later found from a buddy that a freeze plug works much better.
I love the sound of the dual side-drafts- I've been casually cruising the classifieds for a nice ~72 240z as a play car. But first, the Mr2 needs to be on the road again.
Thank you for sharing!
Agree it's pretty amusing to see the vestigial distributor spinning around. How will you be blocking it off? I used a plate for my 4AG:
But later found from a buddy that a freeze plug works much better.
I love the sound of the dual side-drafts- I've been casually cruising the classifieds for a nice ~72 240z as a play car. But first, the Mr2 needs to be on the road again.
Thank you for sharing!
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:31 pm
Thanks guys! I've made a bracket to stabilize and retain the coil packs and I also have added some boots to the plug wires so they look like they belong now. As for the distributor, something has to be there to drive the oil pump. My solution is that I've cut down a spare dizzy and I am making a cap to go over it. That way it'll be lower profile and I can put a sticker or something on it. Oh yeah, the flywheel I machined some weight off it front and back and some along the edge up to the pressure plate but I may try using an aluminum one eventually.
Finished my exhaust and did a shakedow run today including some jetting. Did some videos for fun.
LINKS: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4idACyo3wH4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8hoOGoTpYU
LINKS: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4idACyo3wH4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8hoOGoTpYU
Thanks, It looks much better from the inside of the manifold than the outside.
The first turbo was the T25 from the 2nd gen eclipse- for a cheap junkyard turbo it ran very very well - 175 ft/lbs of torque around 3000 RPM. Power started to drop at 5700 RPM, so I looked for something that could breathe better at the top end.
I switched to a small 14B, since it had the same inlet flange- and re-worked the plumbing. That turbo was used as well, and did give me some problems with unexpected exhaust leaks around the center housing, and undesirable boost creep. I broke down and purchased a big 14B, which has a larger wastegate flange and is supposed to spool up about as fast as the 14B. It's not on the engine yet- it should be going in soon. Hopefully that will give me the power band I've been seeking..
If I loose too much torque at lower RPMs with the new configuration I will probably redesign the manifold and go with a GT28RS ball bearing turbo.
The first turbo was the T25 from the 2nd gen eclipse- for a cheap junkyard turbo it ran very very well - 175 ft/lbs of torque around 3000 RPM. Power started to drop at 5700 RPM, so I looked for something that could breathe better at the top end.
I switched to a small 14B, since it had the same inlet flange- and re-worked the plumbing. That turbo was used as well, and did give me some problems with unexpected exhaust leaks around the center housing, and undesirable boost creep. I broke down and purchased a big 14B, which has a larger wastegate flange and is supposed to spool up about as fast as the 14B. It's not on the engine yet- it should be going in soon. Hopefully that will give me the power band I've been seeking..
If I loose too much torque at lower RPMs with the new configuration I will probably redesign the manifold and go with a GT28RS ball bearing turbo.
New video of the engine running in a slightly better state of tune. Going to head to the autocross this saturday so I hope to have some new video done there. NOTE** both videoa available in high quality by clicking "high quality" on bottom right of video window. Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1It7I6ArRE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oD8Rfgu2HxM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1It7I6ArRE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oD8Rfgu2HxM