Autosport Labs

Try swapping plug/lead to a different cylinder (make sure you get the coil pack terminals right, though!) - if this cylinder then starts misfiring, you know the plug/lead is the problem.

Have you done a compression test on your engine?

I'll do that this afternoon if I have time. Just tried swapping the EDIS module and didn't seem to make a difference (so at least I know I've got 2 that work... or 2 that don't!). Going to see if a new coil pack makes a difference too. I'll have spares of everything by the time I've finished... :( I...

If the RPM was dropping to 0 then it implies that the EDIS module has lost synchronization with the trigger pattern. So check that you haven't knocked the crank sensor/wheel out of alignment. It seemed pretty solid when I had a look/feel - wondering whether dirt in the end of the sensor might have ...

Well, HT leads seem fine and compression is roughly the same on all cylinders (after getting the crappy kit to sort of work). I've won another EDIS module off eBay for £14 delivered, which isn't too bad. However, I've realised the exhaust has moved quite a bit with my extreme off-roading and thinkin...

You don't need to burn the software onto a disc - you can download (click the "Downloads" link at the top of this page) it directly onto your computer. There are also links to the installation process so you can get your trigger wheel and sensor mounted correctly

Good luck!

Missing with or without MJ. I'll see about sourcing another EDIS module. Have ordered a compression kit in the meantime. I'll try testing HT lead resistance tomorrow

Had the first real world test of my MegaJolt powered Pinzgauer at the weekend with some serious off-roading. However, on the way home, the engine was badly misfiring to the point when it would stall instead of idling. This evening, I have done the following: 1) Removed and cleaned the plugs (they al...

What a pain that it was faulty but glad you got it sorted in the end

You'll be fine, I think. The sensor is detecting changes in magnetic strength (sort of) so having a constant background level with the pulley shouldn't affect it - I'm not sure if mine protrudes at all and it works fine.

Have you checked your trigger wheel and sensor is securely fixed? How does the RPM reading in the software compare to that on your car's gauge (if it's got one)?

The cranking advance is the ignition advance that the MJLJ commands during cranking (i.e. when the RPM is low - about 500rpm). It won't affect the smooth running of your engine. You can see what value it's set by with the RPM at zero - the advance gauge should show the figure

PC power supplies have the right Molex plugs (although you'll have to cut 4 pins off).

Full wiring instructions can be downloaded from this site

It's easy - on the ignition map page (the table of numbers) there are 3 tabs. Haven't got it in front of me but click one of them and there is a box clearly marked to set the shift light and limit RPMs

From what I understand, you wire a single shift light up as follows:

1) connect one end to a 12V source
2) connect the other end to the dedicated shift light pin on the MJLJ connector
3) set the shift light RPM in the software and flash to the controller

Have you read the installation and operation guides?

Once they're connected you should be able to read the default map off the MJLJ by clicking the first arrow button on the toolbar