Autosport Labs

Thanks for the replies guys, i was just asking because i was thinking of using the original vac advance on the SU- but had read that the air was too turbulent in this area to give a good reading? Can anyone confirm? I get a stable MAP reading from the stock take-off point on my SU HIF44 carb. Rich ...

Temporarily try using the tach output pin on the ECU, that's exactly the same as the EDIS' pin 11. That *should* works, as it's just a short to ground upon each ignition event, much like what the factory dizzy/coil connection shows. Failing that, leave the dizzy in place, just to give the ECU a signal

On the inlet manifold, the "lump" the two carbs bolt to is an ideal place to tap for take-offs. If the carbs feed a separate bank each (I forget how the stock RV8 manifold works), then one union fitted after each carb, to a small reservoir, then off to the ECU would be perfick. On your sec...

Is this meant for the RVC voltage-sensing type tachos? ie where the original coil -ve would simply have been connected to the tacho's singal input, rather than the older loop-through style RVI inductive sensing type?

The Firmware and Configurator must correspond, there are updates in the config that older firmwares will not support. If you need to update the firmware, it's a reasonably simple process requiring a bit of DOS use, detailed in the Wiki guides.

Fuel filter in-line or an SPi fuel vapour trap

The easiest way to describe what the soft limiter does is like suddenly hitting a really really steep hill. You can push on if you try (even in my 998 mini), but it's so noticeably down on power you have to intentionally keep your right foot in. As long and you don't drive it like a 17-year-old who'...

I'd just keep a spare coil pack, EDIS and crank sensor in the paddock. Provided the wiring joints are all good you'll not have any issues.

I recall someone was in the process of putting one together, but never heard or saw anything of the finished job. That mught just be oversight in my part though :wink: There's no reason at all why it wouldn't work - so long as the pulley is DEFINATELY non-ferrous (like the aluminium alloy in your ca...

I'd suggest the same as Brent has mentioned. My method would be this: drill the 35 holes about the same depth as their thread diameter and tap them full depth. Wind into these holes some mild-steel screws (even cheap cheese heads would be okay) with effin' strong Loctite on the threads, hacksaw the ...

We've tried using my Prolific serial adapter to no avail. I do have another of a different brand, but I'm 99% sure they're both prolific. The controller's a brand new V4 so I assume firmware V4.0.2, and the configuration software definately is .2 :? We'll have to have another poke around when you ge...

That have you tried temporarily linking out the +12V feed direct from the battery? Quite often "accessory" power in switched off while the engine is cranking - exactly when you want a spark.

That's exactly what I had in mind fella!

Second time I have wrote this as I delited it :roll: The reason is the switch should have a positive feed and it earths in the ECU. So what you have done is caused the ECU to get the positve feed through the LED supply What you need to do is change the earth from the switch to a positive feed and t...

Sounds distinctly like the SAW signal isn't getting from the ECU to the EDIS unit - check the wiring first Also,connect a laptop and go for a drive - does the runtime display show a change in advance? Ifso, the above applies. If not, check the ECU